Saturday, June 27, 2009

See, Swirl, Sniff, Sip, Swish, Spit?

A few weeks back we did something a little different on our tasting. It was a focussed horizontal comparison of the kind that you might find in a much more structured, formal environment. The wines were all from Schug Carneros Estate and were all from the 2007 vintage. We tasted two Chardonnays and two Pinot Noirs, the two varietals having one example each from two different AVA's (American Viticulture Areas) in California.

This got me thinking. Normally, in an effort to avoid some of the "wine snob" pitfalls associated with tastings, we go for a more laid-back drop-in style. A "come on in any time between (x hour) and (y hour) and try whatever you like from this week's selection" kind of a thing. This can be both hugely beneficial, but there are limitations. Likewise, the more structured tasting I mention above has it's own sets of plusses and minuses.

If you Google "wine tasting", you may very well come up with some instructions on the "proper" procedure. You may even find a clever collection of alliterative language to help you remember how to act. Most of this kind of stuff is hooey. I mean, would you rather find a wine that you genuinely enjoy that you can remember in the future, or impress some snobby "connoisseurs"?

At any rate, think of this post as a rambling pre-amble to a series I'll post over the next couple of days that will attempt to de-mystify some wine tasting tradition. Before we get started, let me give you one simple idea to always keep in mind when you're tasting: it's about learning what you like. No matter what anybody says about a bottle of wine or what it costs you, it's worth nothing if you don't enjoy it.

Friday, June 26, 2009

New (and old) in the shop this week


I've brought in a couple of really special new things in the past few weeks, and a few old favorites are back, as well. Some of these are special because, well, they're really, really special. Some of them are notable for being great values. Some are both.

First are a couple of wines from Sonoma, California's Schug Carneros Estate.

The 2007 Schug Carneros Chardonnay was oaked in the traditional Burgundian manner. Now, I know what you're thinking. "But I don't like oaky!" If it's any consolation, I don't either. But this one worked, because the quality of the fruit was so high and the balance was just right. The oak didn't overwhelm the fruit, and the result was a subtle, elegant expression of the king of white wines. This one is perfect for dishes with creamy sauces: this wine will work miracles with pasta, foul, and veal.

The 2007 Schug Carneros Pinot Noir was an even bigger hit. Again produced in the style of a Burgundy, this one hits all the buttons for traditional Pinot fans. A subtle and complex wine, it displays earth with hints of cherry, berries, and oak on the nose. The palate is pure Burgundy, with cherries, currants, strawberries, and smoky earth, all followed by a silky smooth finish. This one has a few years of ageability, but is drinking tremendously well right now, and will pair nicely with just about any meal.

Back again is the Emeri Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc. You may have read about this one in Mark Fisher's wine blog a few weeks ago after we and a few other shops in town had poured it at tastings. Mark's enthusiasm matched many others who have tried it. After getting beyond the novelty of a sparkling Sauv Blanc, you'll find an extraordinarily crisp and refreshing value.

Anybody for a beer? I've been harping on Trappist beers for months on end, but here's another worth talking about: The Trappistes Rochefort 6. The 6 uses the same recipe as the more widely available 8 and 10, but is a lighter expression of it due to it's shorter distillation times and lower amounts of candied sugar and yeast. This one has the lowest alcohol of the three and is the most drinkable during the summer and with a wider variety of foods. The Rochefort monks make this recipe only once a year, and it accounts for less than 1% of their production. So when this is gone, it's gone.

Enjoy!

Friday, June 5, 2009

Wouldn't you rather have a beer?




Sometimes, it's okay. In fact, most of the time. With the proliferation of fine imported and hand-crafted American beer, there's really no reason that you can't enjoy the same level of satisfaction that you might with a proper wine pairing. In fact, the possibilities are as endless and rewarding as with wine.

I've been on a major Trappist kick lately. These beers are actually made by Trappist monks in Belgium and in Netherlands, and the brothers seem to know something the rest of the world doesn't. A few favorites are the beers from Westmalle and those from Trappistes Rochefort, both from Belgium.

Perhaps another style of beer which deserves some spotlight right now are the deliciously light and refreshing but flavorful summer beers from America's top craft brewers. Two of my current favorites that could have you in a blissful mood on your patio with a barbecued chicken are Oberon, from Bell's Brewery in Michigan, and Anchor Summer, from San Francisco's Anchor Brewery.

So the next time you're cooking a nice dinner, reach for a beer. And when you find yourself at a restaurant that has a nice selection, ask about one you're not familiar with. Snooty Sommelier be damned!